A stellar chardonnay that is tightly coiled and bred of meagre granitic soils and astute craftsmanship: hand harvested, indigenous yeast, superlative choice of French oak and judicious lees work, all combining to confer tension, crunch and an effusive energy. Stone fruit, orchard fruit pith, lime curd and sublime, sinuous length, whirling across a marrow of nougat and leesy detail. A great chardonnay! Among the very best of a region that produces expressions at this country’s apogee. Put this with the greats!
The wine’s granitic crunch assembles dark plum, aniseed, bitter chocolate, graphite, lead and a controlled warmth and detail to a cavalcade of expansive, dusty tannins. There, but juicy, moreish and far from hard or compressed. The oak is buried by the wine’s implacable density, gushing fruit and yet, cool climate sinew, reserve and freshness. This is an absolutely superb wine that is surely among the country’s very finest merlot-dominant blends.
While relatively uncommon across rose’s largely Mediterranean gaze to find one crafted from cabernet, this is very good. Crunchy redcurrants pop across the mouth, plied with gentle phenolics, energetic acidity and a waft of verdant herb across the finish, allowing for no mistakes as to the varietal DNA. Lovely barrel-ferment-breadth, too.
This pushes the verdant line of cabernet’s envelope, with spearmint, alpine forest, bitter chocolate and beef bouillon lofting over a piercing soprano of cassis and graphite. One soon becomes accustomed to the feel, with a lithe, detailed tannic line making for textural intrigue. The oak, nicely nestled into the fold. Mid-weighted, highly savoury and very long. Just a bit garden green and piney.